Oaxaca de Juárez lounges in the Central Valleys, at the foothills of the Sierra Madre mountains. Here in the tropical savanna, when it’s not raining, the arid, blazing heat seduces you into bars, like a desert oasis. You’ll learn fast that mezcal is the lord of the land, and you’ll often be given free samples. Easing deeper into the local culture, you may fall in love and want to elope, thanks to the combination of mezcal with cannabis: the plant medicine marriage of Oaxaca de Juárez.
Mezcal with Cannabis: The Spirit of Oaxaca
The beverage Mezcal holds profound connections to the history, lore, and mythology of Oaxaca. Mezcal makers, or mezcaleros, revere their connection with Mother Nature, thus, they regard the maguey plant (from which mezcal is made) as sacred. In turn, Oaxacans treat mezcal as plant medicine. The Mexican plant medicine culture gave birth to the addition of various plants and herbs to mezcal for countless years. Now, one of the most popular plant medicine and mezcal pairings you’ll find is mezcal with cannabis.
To learn about the origin, meaning, and use of mezcal with cannabis in Oaxaca, I had a conversation with Chef Israel Loyola. Israel is the executive chef at El Parián Atelier in Oaxaca de Juárez.
Israel was born in Huajuapan de León, in the Mixteca region of Oaxaca, about two and a half hours from the capital. Maguey thrives in Israel’s village, and his conversation with me reflects how mezcal with cannabis transcends alcohol and becomes spirit.
An Interview with Chef Israel Loyola
Adam: When was the first time you saw or heard about mezcal made with cannabis?
Israel: The topic of cannabis has gained a lot of attention because there are more consumers now, but this isn’t something new. It goes back to our ancestors. Mezcal was used medicinally— it was something healing. Our ancestors used it to treat stomach aches and other ailments. And cannabis— beyond ingesting it— was used to heal people, like if someone had joint or knee pain. That’s how mezcal and cannabis were used— not really for drinking. They were first used more for healing purposes than for digestif purposes, or for having a distilled or fermented mezcal with marijuana.
A: Was cannabis mezcal born here in Oaxaca?
I: Yes, the cannabis mezcal, yes.
A: Who was the first person to make cannabis-infused mezcal?
I: Like I said, there’s no single producer who invented cannabis mezcal. This was already happening informally in the villages— it was more for healing purposes, and people started experimenting with it. That’s how cannabis mezcal came to be. It wasn’t like someone said, “I’m going to invent this and sell it.” It already existed. What they did was incorporate cannabis when they saw its healing properties and that it could also be sold.
More than just a trend or something to “get high,” I think it’s more for relaxation. It’s also used for meditation, and many people drink it for that reason. We know mezcal is a traditional, ancestral, and even mystical drink. It connects with everything magical, everything the earth gives us. And cannabis, instead of seeing it as something taboo, should be viewed as something healing that can help us feel good and enjoy the moment.
A: Some people say certain things in Mexico are just for tourists, while others disagree. Is cannabis mezcal more of a tourist thing? Do locals drink it too?
I: Mezcal can be for both tourists and locals. It’s been used for years for its healing properties. It’s just now being commercialized more, and tourists are starting to seek it out. But it’s always been around. Honestly, both locals and foreigners drink it equally. Foreigners are now coming to try it because of curiosity, but for us, it’s always been about healing—it’s always been part of our tradition.
A: I’ve seen mezcal distilled with cannabis, and it’s clear. I’ve also seen mezcal with cannabis added after distillation, and it’s green. What type of cannabis mezcal is the strongest?
I: It all depends on the cannabis strain, what they use, and the final result. Also, how long they leave it to rest or ferment, or whether they distill it. Depending on the number of distillations and the aging time, it can become stronger. A mezcal that was just distilled won’t have the same effect as one that’s been bottled for five or six years. Some people distill it with the herb, and others add the herb after distillation and then bottle it. Every mezcal master has their own recipe, so I can’t say which is stronger or weaker. It also depends on the plant used. But ultimately, it’s the mezcalero’s recipe that matters.
And when people ask me what’s the best mezcal, I always say: the one you like. Some people will say, “I like this one— it’s really alcoholic,” and others will say the opposite. One person’s “not strong enough” is too strong for someone else. It depends on your palate and personal experience.
A: I read online that mezcal with marijuana was traditionally used topically to relieve muscle pain, kind of like mezcal infusions with scorpions.
I: That’s true— they used it as a remedy. Mezcal was infused with scorpions, centipedes, ants, you name it. That’s also where the worm-in-the-bottle tradition comes from. If you go up north, they do it with tequila and bacanora too. And if you go to the markets, you can even find snake-infused mezcal. But it’s all traditionally used for healing.
A: I also read that cannabis-infused mezcal emphasizes aroma and flavor more than psychoactive effects, since THC tends to evaporate during distillation. Is that true?
I: As I said, it varies. Some distill with cannabis; others add it after distillation. It depends on taste and on the mezcal master. For instance, if you add fresh cannabis after distillation, the mezcal turns greener. Some are clearer, some more vibrant. It all depends on the mezcalero.
A: How much does a bottle of mezcal with cannabis cost?
I: As for the price, a bottle of cannabis mezcal can go for around 1,200 to 1,500 pesos ($60-$75) at most. The mezcal used for cannabis infusion is typically espadín. Why? Because it’s a mellow mezcal that mixes well with other things. Unlike arroqueño or other long-aged agaves, which take 15, 20, even 50 years to mature. Those should be enjoyed on their own. Cannabis mezcal is better suited for espadín, which matures more quickly and blends better. So yeah, the aged agaves should be respected, and cannabis mezcal works best with espadín— it’s easier to restock and enjoy.
A: Is cannabis mezcal legal in Mexico?
I: Some bottles are, others aren’t. It all depends on the mezcal master and whether the mezcal company is certified and allowed to sell it. Not all of them are.
A: Can guests at El Parián Atelier try mezcal with cannabis?
I: Yes, on the lower level of the restaurant we have a bar where we offer a mezcal tasting experience.
Sip Back and Relax Mezcal with Cannabis
If you find yourself exploring the cozy, Spanish colonial confines of Oaxaca, locating mezcal with cannabis won’t be difficult. Mezcal with cannabis is sold at various street markets, as well as in bars and restaurants, like El Parián Atelier. The hardest part is finding the mezcal you enjoy the most. The first time I tried mezcal distilled with cannabis (the clear variety), an hour later, I felt like I ate an edible. Now when I drink mezcal with cannabis, I sip back, relax with my plant medicine and commune with Oaxaca’s holy spirit.
